Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

Lake Mjøsa

At 117 kilometersm long, Lake Mjøsa is Norway’s largest lake. It stretches roughly from the northern edge of Oslo to Lillehammer. At its widest point sits Hamar, the area where my mother grew up.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

Pulpit Rock

Pulpit Rock lies in the fjords of southwestern Norway, A quick ferry ride and drive east of Stavanger. Pulpit Rock is a go-to for hikers and adventure-seekers from across the world. It’s a four-hour hike straight up to the top and back, but it’s totally worth it. Bring food and have a picnic as you dangle your feet over the edge. If you can’t make it to Pulpit Rock, no worries—there are quite literally thousands of beautiful fjord hikes running up and down the Norwegian coast.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway
Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

Hamar

You’ll find Hamar just a quick drive north of Oslo, Norway’s capital city. While in town, be sure to stop by the Hedmarksmuseet at Domkirkeodden, a gorgeous, historic park that runs along the lake. Here you can casually stroll through 800-year-old homes and cathedral ruins as you make your way to the shore. In the summers, you’ll find this place packed with swimmers and barbecues.

If you’re looking for something more upscale than barbecuing by the shore, stroll just up the hill to Hamarstua, a gorgeous restaurant perched at the top of Domkirkeodden’s historic grounds. It’s a perfect spot for lunch or dinner with a view.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway
Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

A signature Scandinavian spread—plenty of shrimp, cured salmon, cheese, and eggs, with some fruits and veggies thrown in for good measure.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

A Norwegian trip isn’t complete without making Norwegian friends and visiting their summer houses. The tradition of the Scandinavian summer home goes back generations—it’s a place to escape and find refuge from daily life, whether the refuge is across the country or just outside of town.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway
Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway
Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway
Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

FlÅm

Flåm’s beauty is hard to adequately describe. This tiny town of 300 people deep in the fjords of Norway is nestled between 5,000-foot-tall mountains and its water is 3,000-feet deep. The vastness makes cruise ships look as small as tugboats.

The fjords are unlike any nature I’ve ever seen. You can drive for miles and miles, weaving between massive mountain peaks, passing waterfall after waterfall, spotting whales and seals, or you can simply sit and enjoy the surprising quiet that surrounds you for miles.

While there, you just have to take advantage of the nature surrounding you. As fate would have it, I found out I share mutual friends with a guy in Flåm. I was soon introduced to John, who runs Fjord Safari tours in town. Next thing I know, we’re getting a historic tour of the fjords and all of the tiny towns along them.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

The tiny towns along the fjord have so much history, and John filled me in on tons of it during our tour. For instance historically, ladies of the fjord were responsible for taking care of their farm animals while they grazed in spring, living in tiny spring houses at the base of the fjord. After some time, they would trek with their animals to the farms at the top of the mountains. So every year, they made climbs from the bottom to the top of these mountains, often having to tie the animals with rope and lug them up the parts that were too steep for them to climb. Today, some of those farm houses are summer homes that people visit from around the world, and they are often still difficult to get to (usually you can arrive only by boat, then you must hike to your destination).

Some of the larger fjord towns have more unique stories behind them. One tiny town we visited is the largest exporter of goat cheese in Norway. Their population: 67 humans, 300 goats.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

Flåm is tiny enough to eat at most of its restaurants in a day. Alternatively, you can enjoy a classic Norwegian summer pastime—purchase a tiny disposable charcoal barbecue from the grocery store (you can find them everywhere) and cook dinner wherever you want! In this case, on the edge of a fjord.

Once the day in Flåm winds down and boats stop hopping from place to place, the fjord waters become as still as glass and perfectly mirrors whatever’s above it. It’s the biggest puddle I’ve ever seen.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway
Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

When going to Flåm, take a train from Oslo. The train ride is known as one of the most beautiful in Norway, and you can do it in an afternoon. Try to ride in a relatively empty car so you can switch seats depending on which side’s view is prettiest at the time.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

Ringsaker

Just northwest of Hamar is the town of Ringsaker. Here you’ll find Hoel Gård, a hotel and farm that sits on the eastern banks of Lake Mjøsa.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway
Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

Hotel Gård belongs to my mother’s best friend, Vigdis Sandberg (pictured here), and her husband, Per Eilif, and has been in their family for generations. We’ve been spending time here since I was a baby and my most vivid Norway memories are from here. The main house is three stories of what feels like endless hallways and bedrooms.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

Since my last visit they have renovated the other farm houses on the property, and can now sleep over 100 people at a time. They host everything from small gatherings to big conferences to weddings (here you see the bridal suite, which is also the tiny house of my dreams). Anyone can book a room, all you have to do is call for availability.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

Bergen

Bergen is the second-largest city in Norway. It was established almost 1000 years ago and much of its original architecture remains to explore. Head over to Bryggen to wander through the historic harbor-side houses and pay a visit to The Hanseatic Museum, one of the most historic and well-preserved houses in the city, to get a glimpse of Norwegian life from centuries ago.

You can take the train directly to Bergen from Flåm or, if your trip is just beginning, you can take an equally beautiful train ride straight from Oslo.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway
Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

Stavanger

Stavanger is the perfect harbor town to stop through as you explore the southeastern coast of Norway. The village is full of old wooden houses, but my favorites are just next to the harbor downtown. They’re tiny, all white, perfectly preserved, and only accessible by foot.

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway

Before you leave Norway make sure to have a classic cup of dark Norwegian coffee and a Solo (Norway’s beloved orange soda).

Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway
Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway
Tiny Atlas Quarterly, Helena Price and Julianna Goodman, Norway